Coco Chanel se encargó de presentar el «little black dress«, el atuendo más famoso de todos los tiempos que encumbró a Audrey Hepburn; los trajes característicos de su marca y, sobre todo, el perfume Chanel No. 5. A Coco Chanel se le atribuye la transformación de los gustos de la mujer moderna del siglo XX, convirtiendo su nombre en sinónimo de sentido de la moda impecable.
Lo que nadie sabe es que, en los últimos años, se desclasificaron ciertos documentos del gobierno francés revelando un nexo encubierto entre ella y la inteligencia militar nazi durante la II Guerra Mundial.
Nació en la pobreza en 1883 y fue enviada a un orfanato de convento a los 12 años. Chanel superó sus duros comienzos para presentar su ropa de mujer visionaria en la I Guerra Mundial.
Su ascenso meteórico la empujó a la estratosfera como una de las figuras más poderosas e influyentes de Europa. Además de trabajar con luminarias artísticas como Pablo Picasso y Serge Diaghilev, fue amiga cercana de Winston Churchill y amante de Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor, el duque de Westminster.
![Coco Chanel con el duque de Westminster y Winston Churchil](https://tintaindomita.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Churchill-y-Coco-Chanel-copia.jpg)
La posición y conexiones prominentes de Chanel la ayudaron a recuperar el control de su vida en un momento crucial. Esto fue cuando las fuerzas de Hitler comenzaron a acercarse a Francia a fines de la década de 1930.
La relación entre Coco Chanel y la inteligencia alemana
Después de que los nazis por fin lograron apoderarse de París en 1940, Chanel comenzó una relación sentimental con el barón Hans Günther von Dincklage, un oficial de la inteligencia militar alemana de Abwehr. Misma agencia que contrató los servicios del espía doble Garbo, quien facilitó después la operación del Desembarco de Normandía descrita en este artículo.
Este romance permitió a Coco Chanel mudarse a las cómodas habitaciones en el Hotel Ritz de París y la mantuvo firmemente arraigada en la alta sociedad, que también había sido infiltrada por oficiales alemanes.
Las relaciones de Chanel con Dincklage también le permitieron tratar asuntos personales importantes. Lo más inmediato era su necesidad de velar por la liberación de su sobrino André Palasse, quien fue encarcelado en un conflicto alemán en 1940. Luego venían sus intereses comerciales: desde 1924, cuando la familia judía Wertheimer había respaldado el lanzamiento de su línea de perfumes a cambio de la mayoría de las ganancias, la experta en moda había tratado de renegociar las cosas en términos más favorables. Ahora, con las nuevas leyes de arianización que obligaba a los judíos a renunciar a sus negocios, Chanel vio la oportunidad de reclamar una rama lucrativa de su imperio.
Coco Chanel como agente secreto de Abwehr
Poco tiempo después, en 1941, Chanel se convirtió en un agente secreto de Abwehr bajo el código (F-7124). Dincklage presentó a su amante a otro destacado agente de Abwehr, el barón Louis de Vaufreland. Este hombre supuestamente prometió ayudar a Chanel a liberar a su sobrino a cambio de su servicio a Berlín. En algún momento de 1941, Chanel fue registrada con el nombre en clave de «Westminster«, en honor a su antiguo amante.
Encargada de obtener información política de colegas en Madrid, Chanel viajó a la ciudad española durante unos meses a mediados de 1941 con Vaufreland, bajo la apariencia de negocios. Según el libro de Hal Vaughn Durmiendo con el enemigo, hay un registro de su cena con el diplomático británico Brian Wallace. En ella habló casualmente sobre la vida en el París ocupado y la animosidad que los franceses y los alemanes tenían entre sí.
No está claro si las interacciones de Chanel en Madrid movieron el agua de alguna manera. Aparentemente eso fue suficiente para impresionar a los supervisores de Abwehr y obtener así la liberación de su sobrino Palasse.
Sin embargo, su intento de recuperar las ganancias de su perfume llegó a un punto muerto. Supo que los Wertheimers habían transferido el control de la compañía a un francés no judío llamado Félix Amiot, antes de huir a los Estados Unidos.
Entre 1943 y 1944, con la suerte cambiando contra Alemania, Chanel formó parte de otra misión dirigida por el general Walter Schellenberg de las SS. Llamada Operación Modellhut (sombrero modelo), debía usar su conexión personal con Churchill, ahora primer ministro de Inglaterra, para comunicar que muchos oficiales superiores de las SS buscaban el fin del derramamiento de sangre.
Chanel se encargo de la liberación de Vera Lombardi, una amiga común que compartía con Churchill, de una prisión italiana. Viajaron a Madrid con Dincklage, donde Lombardi recibió instrucciones de entregar una carta de Chanel a Churchill en la embajada británica.
Sin embargo, este plan fracasó cuando Lombardi denunció a Chanel y asociados como espías alemanes. Lombardi fue detenida nuevamente y Chanel logró regresar con seguridad a París antes de que pudieran encarcelarla. Escapó del castigo y eliminó la evidencia de sus acciones que la ataban a Abwehr.
El final de la guerra
En agosto de 1944, pocos meses después del fiasco de Madrid, las fuerzas francesas recuperaron París de los alemanes. Con su reputación de «colaboradora horizontal«, Chanel fue interrogada ante el Comité de Libre Purga Francesa y liberada en poco tiempo, rápidamente huyó a Suiza.
Después de la guerra, Chanel apareció en esta corte francesa para dar cuenta del testimonio jurado de oficiales alemanes arrestados que la vincularon a Abwehr. Se las arregló para salir sin problemas, confirmando que Vaufreland había prometido sacar a su sobrino de la cárcel, pero negando el alcance de sus participaciones.
![Coco Chanel](https://tintaindomita.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Coco-Chanel.jpg)
Según el libro de Durmiendo con el enemigo, Chanel se enteró de que un hombre llamado Schellenberg, que a menudo se encontraba presente en conversaciones con los alemanes, planeaba publicar sus memorias. Esto la alertó ante la posibilidad de que se publicase todo lo que ella negó en la corte. Así que Chanel, de manera muy discreta, pagó las facturas médicas del hombre y se aseguró de que su familia estuviera en buen estado financiero.
Con esto, las memorias finalmente no revelaron la participación como agente de Coco Chanel. En última instancia, ella nunca sufrió consecuencias por los tratos en tiempos de guerra con los nazis. Regresó al mundo de la moda en 1954 ayudada por la misma familia Wertheimer con la que había luchado durante tantos años. A partir de ahí, Chanel vivió sus años como celebridad antes de su muerte en el Hotel Ritz en 1971.
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