Uno de los desastres modernos más impactantes de nuestra historia ocurrió en el Monte Everest, el 10 de mayo de 1996. Cuatro grupos de escaladores partieron hacia la cima poco antes de una tormenta de nieve inesperada que los atrapó en lo alto de la montaña. Murieron 8 personas en lo que resultó ser el evento más catastrófico en la historia del Everest.
La tragedia fue el resultado de lo que algunos llaman «fiebre por la cima» y la sobrecomercialización de la montaña, que provocó fuertes retrasos en el ascenso. Todo esto, aunado a malas decidiones de los sherpas, las ambiciones de uno de los líderes y la ética de trabajo negligente del guía principal.
El primer grupo estaba dirigido por Rob Hall de la empresa Adventure Consultants; el segundo, por Scott Fischer de Mountain Madness; el tercero era una expedición de la Policía Fronteriza Indo-Tibetana; y el cuarto, una taiwanesa.
Si bien todos los nombres involucrados en el desastre del Everest de 1996 son importantes, hay algunos que deben tenerse en cuenta para comprender los eventos de aquel día.
- Rob Hall, líder y propietario de Adventure Consultants.
- Andy Harris, guía secundario de Adventure Consultants.
- Jon Krakauer, periodista de Adventure Consultants.
- Ang Dorje, guía sherpa de Adventure Consultants.
- Scott Fischer, líder y propietario de Mountain Madness.
- Anatoli Boukreev, guía principal de Mountain Madness.
- Neal Beidleman, guía secundario de Mountain Madness.
- Sandy Hill-Pittman, socialité y periodista de prensa de Mountain Madness.
- Lopsang Jangbu, guía sherpa de Mountain Madness.
El hacinamiento y la sobrecomercialización del Everest
El Monte Everest estaba abarrotado en la primavera de 1996, con expediciones desde Taiwán, Estados Unidos, Nueva Zelanda, Sudáfrica y otros países. La saturación en todos los campamentos de escalada fue el primer factor que contribuyó a la tragedia. De hecho, la comercialización del Everest fue algo funesto, ya que la competencia para llegar a la cumbre aumentó con la búsqueda de publicidad, lo que derivó en malas decisiones y negligencia.
Pese a esto, las primeras etapas de escalada ocurrieron sin problema. Los equipos llegaron fácilmente al 4º campamento, el último antes de la cima. Pero todavía quedaba lo más difícil, alcanzar la cumbre a tiempo.
Las cuerdas fijas no estaban colocadas
Justo antes de iniciar la última etapa de la expedición, Rob Hall y Scott Fischer acordaron trabajar juntos para llegar a la cumbre el mismo día. Designaron a un sherpa de cada equipo (Lopsang Jangbu y Ang Dorje) para colocar las cuerdas fijas que llevarían a los escaladores a la cima. Pero la mala relación entre ambos llevó a un malentendido y nadie lo hizo finalmente. Este fue el catalizador de la catástrofe que se avecinaba.
Como resultado, los escaladores se amontonaron en ese punto de la etapa, ralentizando toda la expedición y retrasándola hasta cinco horas en tiempo. La hora límite para llegar al pico e iniciar el descenso era las 2:00 PM. Más tarde sería peligroso debido a la falta de luz del día y posibles tormentas. Sin embargo, nadie pudo cumplir debido al embotellamiento. Además, el oxígeno era limitado y la mayoría lo agotó durante el retraso. Ya que era muy tarde para volver al campamento e intentarlo al día siguiente, todos continuaron.
Mientras tanto, se había estado gestando una tormenta debajo de ellos. Los que estaban próximos a la cima pudieron alcanzarla y comenzaron su descenso, pasando a Rob Hall y al resto de los equipos que todavía estaban subiendo. Estos escaladores bajaron directamente hacia la tormenta.
La tormenta atrapa a los escaladores durante el desastre del Everest de 1996
Cerca de las 4:00 PM, el último cliente de Adventure Consultants, Doug Hansen, finalmente llegó a la cima con la ayuda de Rob Hall, quien se quedó atrás para ayudarle. Poco después, Hansen se desmayó a falta de oxígeno y Hall se negó a abandonarlo. Ambos quedaron atrapados en la Cumbre Sur por la tormenta. Más abajo, los miembros de ambos equipos también quedaron atrapados a 180 metros del campamento más cercano.
Estos escaladores habían logrado llegar tan lejos gracias a la dedicación casi sobrehumana del guía Neal Beidleman, quien ayudó a arrastrar a 5 de ellos por el risco sur, tan lejos como pudo. Luego los dejó en un lugar relativamente seguro para dirigirse al campamento 4 en busca de ayuda. Scott Fischer y Beck Weathers, entre muchos otros, quedaron varados dentro de la tormeta sin poder llegar al campamento.
8 escaladores mueren durante el desastre del Everest de 1996
En el transcurso de la noche fallecieron Doug Hansen y Andy Harris, cuyos cuerpos nunca fueron encontrados. Los restos de Scott Fischer fueron atados a la montaña por su sherpa, Lopsang Jangbu, y pudieron recuperarse. También murieron Tsewang Samanla, Dorje Morup y Tsewang Paljor, clientes de ambas compañías.
Rob Hall fue el último en morir, sobreviviendo dos noches en la Cumbre Sur y parte del tercer día. Su cuerpo permaneció allí hasta que cayó hasta la base de la montaña. En ese tiempo pudo comunicarse con su esposa, que estaba embarazada, para despedirse de ella. Sus últimas y dramáticas palabras quedaron grabadas en la historia junto con el evento: “Duerme bien mi amor. Por favor, no te preocupes demasiado«.
En 1997, Anatoli Boukreev encontró el cuerpo de Yasuko Namba, clienta de Adventure Consultants, y erigió una tumba para protegerlo. Más tarde, ese mismo año, su esposo financió una expedición para bajar sus restos desde la montaña.
Beck Weathers sobrevivió milagrosamente, aunque perdió la nariz, cinco dedos de la mano izquierda y mitad del brazo derecho por congelación. En su libro Left for Dead contó la historia de cómo fue abandonado en la montaña tres veces y dado por muerto. Su esposa Peach pasó a la historia por haber organizado una misión de rescate histórica en la que un helicóptero aterrizó en el Campamento 1, hecho que le salvó la vida.
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10 noviembre, 2023 a las 11:18
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8 noviembre, 2023 a las 21:36
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3 noviembre, 2023 a las 03:27
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4 octubre, 2023 a las 22:38
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3 octubre, 2023 a las 08:27
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26 septiembre, 2023 a las 23:48
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26 septiembre, 2023 a las 14:36
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15 septiembre, 2023 a las 11:15
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12 septiembre, 2023 a las 12:37
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10 septiembre, 2023 a las 13:00
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6 septiembre, 2023 a las 03:47
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31 agosto, 2023 a las 14:58
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26 agosto, 2023 a las 09:18
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