El pozole es uno de los platos más icónicos y queridos de México, pero también se le otorga el título del más controvertido. Este guiso es popular en muchas partes del mundo gracias a la exportación cultural de todos los que se establecieron en el extranjero.
Sin embargo, su origen, que se remonta a los años 1300 d.C., es más oscuro de lo que parece. El pozole era un caldo habitual entre los aztecas, quienes en lugar de carne animal, agregaban carne humana.
El ritual de consumo del Pozole
Este plato fue documentado por varios de los frailes que llegaron a la Nueva España años después de la caída de la capital azteca, Tenochtitlán. Entre ellos destaca Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, quien escribió sobre el suceso singular en su obra monumental, Historia general de las cosas de la Nueva España. Se puede afirmar que lo escribió con disgusto, ya que los antiguos aztecas preparaban el pozole con carne de los cautivos sacrificados en algunas fiestas, principalmente dedicadas al dios desollado, Xipe Totec, una de las divinidades en esta cultura prehispánica.
En esta celebración, se realizaban los famosos sacrificios de gladiadores, donde se ataba a un guerrero cautivo a una gran piedra cilíndrica de la cintura para enfrentar a los grandes luchadores armados hasta los dientes. Después de morir asesinado, el cautivo era desollado y desmembrado para el consumo, literalmente.

El muslo derecho siempre iba al Palacio Real azteca para expresar gratitud y respeto. Según los cronistas de Sahagún, los muslos eran la carne con mejor sabor y textura. El izquierdo y ambos brazos eran propiedad del guerrero que había capturado a su enemigo en la batalla. Aunque no podía consumirlos directamente por respeto, sus familiares, compañeros de armas y los líderes de las comunidades recibían el honor de disfrutarlo en un gran banquete.
Hay que destacar que entre los aztecas existía la antropofagia ritual, es decir, el consumo de carne humana con fines religiosos. Este privilegio estaba segmentado a un selecto grupo de la gran población de Tenochtitlán, los nobles, los gobernantes y los guerreros. Cuando se llevaban a cabo estos rituales, Sahagún comenta que la carne humana nunca era asada, sino hervida.
La preparación del platillo
Una de las formas más comunes de consumir carne humana era en pozolli, palabra que en náhuatl significa espumoso o hervido. Desde tiempos inmemoriales se utilizaba una variedad de maíz, cuya principal característica es el gran tamaño de sus granos.
Para la preparación del pozole, primero se precocinan los granos de maíz en agua con lima. Cuando suelta el primer hervor se retira del fuego para dejar reposar toda la noche. Al día siguiente, se mezcla la carne con el maíz pelado en una olla grande para hervir de nuevo durante varias horas hasta que los granos estallen. Los antiguos aztecas describían este proceso como una transformación en flores blancas.

Actualmente, este platillo mexicano se sirve con rodajas de rábano picante, lechuga rayada, aguacate, tostadas o queso crema, y en algunas zonas es típico agregar chicharrón. Para enfatizar su sabor se le agrega pimienta piquín molida y orégano.
Debido a la consternación que causaba en los europeos la antropofagia ritual de los aztecas, importaron una gran cantidad de cerdos para sustituir la carne humana. Los nativos decían, al parecer, que el sabor, la textura y la cantidad de grasa era muy similar. Esta es una de las principales razones por las que México es uno de los países del mundo donde se consumen más carne de cerdo.
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